Installing a hot water heater element in a barrel

[GREASE SHEIKH]

what's the best way to install a hot water heater element in a steel barrel with no leaks? One of the barrels i want to use has the non-removeable lid with the pipe fittings. The only thing i can think of is to cut a 1" hole with a hole saw and weld a 1" pipe coupling on, but the problem here is that those barrels are pretty thin and i do most of my welding with an old lincoln stick welder, and i wonder if i can even weld something this thin with that. My neighbor has a nice mig setup which i am sure would do the trick but he is pretty busy and i try not to bother him for help until i REALLY need it....
I would also like in install some sort of drain valve on the bottom for draining out water, same problem. This is going to be for an on-board collection tank - it will have some copper pipes with coolant running through while driving in the event that i have no choice but to gather and filter on the road (which i of course hope to avoid but you never know) and then the heater element will be used to help with settling and pre-filtering while at home.

Any thoughts?
thanks!
Paul

[dana linscott]

Paul,

Consider using a salvaged water pressure tank like I use in my wvo sucker design. Much easier to do what you are thinking of and no welding. :D

[vegipete]

You could try soldering fittings on, but the fit will have to be good and you'll have to be aggressive with the flux to get things clean enough. If your torch is hot enough, silver soldering or brazing would be better. Consider also drilling the hole after the fitting is attached - the hole will be in the right place and you can leak test the joint _before_ drilling.

You can mig weld to a barrel but it's not easy.

Dana's suggestion remains the best though.

[veggiesuburban]

You can get a 1.25npt coupling, and a 1npt-1.25npt adapter(1.25 male, with a 1npt female tapped hole) Using a file, smooth one end of the coupling, possibly even put a slight arc on it to match the Inside of the barrel. The coupling goes on the inside, the adapter on the outside. Drill a hole in the barrel big enough for the threads of the adapter to pass through, and screw it into the coupling, capturing the barrel in between. Put some pipe dope or rtv on it when you assemble it and you won't have any problems with leaks, and have a quick cheap and easy port where ever you need it.